First experience on a MoonBoard

Table of Contents

Ah, the MoonBoard. I had seen YouTube videos of people climbing on boulder wall with holds marked by LED lights to indicate different routes. The MoonBoard is the brainchild of Ben Moon an elite rock climber from England. To be really honest many years back when I was bouldering with a couple of friends we were bitching about having to tape up routes that we thought of having holds lit up instead. Of cause, I guess Ben Moon beat us to it. Anyway, please let me get this out of the way. Just in case. If there are any revolutionary climbing products appearing in the future which my friends and I had already thought of. These are our ideas. If you are a mechanic or an electrician (maybe an IT guy as well) feel free to claim them as yours.

Ideas for training board

1) Using an app to alter the orientation of the holds to change the difficulty of the route (I am not talking about using an alan key here)

2) Routes are indicated by having the entire hold lit up instead of a LED bulb at the bottom of the hold. This way you can see which hold to step on when you are over the hold and can’t see the LED light. Unfortunately, this had been done as well by Kilter Board… guess I just can’t get a break

3) Apply idea 1 and 2 to a lead climb wall (that would be da bomb)

Training on Moonboard

Ok, now back to topic the MoonBoard. The angle of the MoonBoard is 40 degree. The holds are set up according to a set standard established by I guess Ben Moon.

The holds are small and crimpy. If there is a hold where you can put 1/3 of your fingers in is considered a good hold. I had cut down on bouldering due to the tendency of injury. Because sometimes you get carried away and try too hard. And with age, the likelihood of injury increase but the speed of recovery tend to decrease. The holds and the angle of the wall don’t change so with each harder route the designated holds get smaller and the moves get bigger. Climbing on the MoonBoard will require a lot of cutting loose, big cross, heel hooks, deadpoint, and dynos (for shorter climbers). In essence, MoonBoard is a campus board on steroids.

Is Moonboard for you?

I don’t think beginners and average climbers will enjoy the MoonBoard. To climb V2 – V4 on MoonBoard with relative ease, you have to be a decent climber who does regular bouldering and campus board training. There are a few strong 20 something climbers working on V4 – V6 routes on the MoonBoard and they are struggling only to finish the route after numerous attempts. I would consider the friends I went with to try out the MoonBoard to be regular recreational climbers but we were not able to finish any routes. I did a V4 and the closest I got was on the finishing move a big cross to the right with my left hand. You know you shouldn’t try it anymore when your shoulders are giving you the “don’t do it again or I’m going to give you fucking pain for the next few days signal”.

Moonboard App

So to conclude. MoodBoard is a great tool to get strong and I mean really strong. You are climbing set problems that are I guess of an international standard. Because the problems are uploaded onto the MoonBoard app. This means everyone climbing the same route will be climbing on the same holds and same moves on a 40-degree wall at the same grade. So if you can’t make it at least you’ll know how much you suck compared to international standards.

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